Top rope solo devices reddit If rope has chance of abrading over edges you can setup intermediate anchor below that feature using a clove hitch to a draw before that feature with rope above loose/will be unweighed untill unclipping the clove. I must say that it was a bit scary at first. Normally, I use and would recommend a dynamic rope to alleviate the dynamic loading of your devices (that I will discuss in 2). Even then, he still shattered his leg and had a long recovery back to climbing again. ” ~ Carl Tomblin. 2. weighmyrack. Don't have slack in your system, that can damage the rope with either device. However, there are some that still will work well for soloing. The Rescucender is a perfectly fine device for rope solo. I use two strands of rope fo I forgot to link to the Petzl article After some consideration I went for a grigri with chest harness (to keep it oriented right) as a main device and a Petzl ASAP as backup for the lead solos. Neither the grigris nor the neox work without a hand on the brake, from above (though the grigri+ in top rope mode does, actually,). I'd like to get a static rope, but at the moment my rope budget is going towards halves If you load the body of the device, it can/will just slide down the rope. Apr 23, 2023 · The shunt and ascender were never designed for top rope solo or lead rope solo, one of the best bit of kit I've seen on the market so far that works really well for top rope solo is the Taz Love 2 and 3 as they are rated for progress capture, ascent and descent. So ask what might happen if the Grigri fails to grab. Originally I was looking for an USHBA basic ascender, which seems to be the best "non-teethed" device on the market for use as a top-rope solo device. I would use a burly rope to top rope solo. Petzl does not approve using any of their devices for lead rope solo. Needs weight similar to a microtrax, but once you’re off the ground it’s great. Aug 25, 2022 · Toprope soloing is when the climber is not tied into the rope directly. If she falls, the PCDs will catch on the rope and arrest her fall. P. Just go with a reputable manufacturer. The best and simplist method for top rope self belay BY FAR is to tie in on one end of the top rope and thread the other end through a grigri. Instead of a grigri, I use a Camp Lift ascender for my second. Whenever I read threads about top rope solo, everyone agrees on using one device to self-belay, and some kind of backup in case your belay device malfunctions. My current setup is a trango cinch in the belay loop and a prusik on top of it as backup. Saftey considerations: The lever of a gri gri is on the left side of the device therefore the grigri must be on the left side of your tie-in figure 8 knot. g. This gear below is what you'd need to do his favorite system. But if you're doing normal top rope climbing, your belayer has a belay device, and that's it, no backup. Progress capture devices that don't use teeth can still compress the core, causing damage that's much harder to notice than a damaged sheath. , Petzl Micro Traxion or Camp Lift), and then climbs up while the PCDs move up the rope. FAR better to use "frame loaded" devices for TR solo rope grab: the Traxions, Rescucender, Petzl or Ushba Basic and the like. For example, two of my friends were badly injured in the past year while rope soloing: One friend took a 60-footer on a NIAD run while short-fixing. A. The only deviced made for lead soloing (Silent Partner, Soloist) are out of production, so you are stuck going against the manufacturers recommendations. If you are looking for a device specifically for TR solo, I would recommend the Camp Lift. Micro traxions are adequate but are not designed to be dynamically Practice your ascent/descent transition midline (without an anchor in front of you). The micro traxion is also a perfectly fine device for rope solo. Just did my first top rope solo, would love to get some feedback on the system I used. l does not reccomend using their devices for top rope solo but still recognizes people do it anyway and has good information on the safest methods. As for devices, I use a Gibbs ascender as my top device with a loop of shock cord looped over my head tied through the carabiner attachment eye and a triple lock oval connected to belay loop. 0, which seems like it is hard to get ahold of currently. For top rope solo I used a Micro Traxion and a Kong Duck on separate lines (yes I fixated both strands it the top from seperate bolts). However, since it is not being made anymore I am looking at the C. So far I've just used my regular fat dynamic rope, being careful of padding edges. Brent from Avant Climbing joined us to show us what he uses to climb hard but stay redundant. Neither the grigris nor the neox will slip if already locked with a climber hanging on the load strand. Falls closer to anchor with any slack in the system will be more jarring etc than any top rope or lead fall. It will slide down the rope, pushing the shunt ahead of it. M. Goblin since it uses the same system as the USHBA and is being currently made. A regular grigri slips under the weight of the rope when belaying someone from above. com There are lots of different systems for top rope soloing. See full list on blog. Bluewater, Edelweiss, Mammut, etc. Instead, she sets up a fixed line from a solid anchor above the route, attaches herself to the rope with two PCDs (e. I usually will clip a backup knot or two to my belay loop somewhere along the way. Check out the full top rope solo episode here! Apr 16, 2020 · 1. Backup can be a second rope, knots, a second device, etc. I often opt to top rope solo both when working out moves on a project but more commonly on easier routes for some climbing milage. He was on LRS with a modded Revo and no backup knots for speed, so if the device hadn't engaged, he would've died. There is currently only one device on the market that is marketed as a lead rope solo device, the El Mudo 2. Solo Belay Devices “It don’t gotta be fun to be fun. The cinch proved to be very reliable, the rope never slipped enough to make the prusik grab the rope. I go rope soloing on a regular basis, both to session hard moves and to get a few vertical meters to gain endurance. Static ropes are good too. xtsff zakohc ybr agynt rfxejc tihnvs hfzjq slnpre lucik plkqu

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