Open hand crimp reddit. See full list on thewanderingclimber.

Open hand crimp reddit Because it's easier to maintain under load. If you're just starting out then yes, you should focus on climbing open handed as much as possible since the connective tissues in your fingers aren't yet strong enough to handle the added stress of harder crimping. Produced sharp pain in the forearm / wrist area in a very specific open hand position. I would suggest spending significantly more effort on the half crimp, or any other very active grip position when training. But for others with long pinkies, the degree to which they can open their hand, with and without pinky, is "training half crimps is effective at targeting the muscles used for open hand" I don't think that is true. com Dec 14, 2016 · For the small edge open-hand, my pinky is clinging straight while the middle's PIP is about 140 degrees and the DIP at about 165 degrees. Instead, 3 finger open, and pinky+ring open when training on edges. If you have short pinky fingers, the difference between 4 finger open hand and 3 finger open hand is probably large. Half crimp for training, open crimp for performance. If you're crimping all the way up the route, your open-hand grip will be stronger near the top, if you're open-handing up the route, your crimp strength will be saved for the crux Resting on large holds - similar to the point above, gives muscles time to recover Jan 19, 2021 · This is the exact same idea as the above, however this hand position asks the climber to fully articulate their pinky finger as well. Full crimp vs half crimp vs completely open hand. It really depends how long your pinky fingers are. It definitely has the open-hand feel with the finger pads being peeled and the weight bearing on the A1 tendon rather than the A3 and forearms. Personally I think the 3 finger open is the most important grip to train because you can use it instead of crimping in many cases and so avoid injury. Dave MacLeod, when he switched to an open hand training emphasis, went from '3 major pulley injuries a year' to 'a minor tweak In theory, the open handed grip exerts less finger lever force on the hold, using less forearm effort at the cost of power on smaller holds. Sometimes on very small micro-edges, a full-crimp may provide better traction or on larger edges an open/drag grip may provide a more restful alternative, but generally speaking, the half crimp is the way to go. Because you'll certainly need to use open hand positions (probably 4-open more than 3-drag) for plenty of moves: for the added reach when latching (as you suggested), certain compression moves, to save energy/crimp strength for later/earlier moves on a problem/route, to provide different wrist positions to make movements with the rest of your Feb 7, 2014 · The evidence is in the amount of people that have ruptured their tendons using a closed crimp compared to an open hand. . For me, this ends up with my middle finger in almost a strict half crimp position, with ring slightly more open and index and pinky in a drag-like position. See full list on thewanderingclimber. but it seems no matter what level you are, you will be weak open handed your first several times training it. half crimp and 4) are both full crimps. If you have ever seen a climber full crimp once, and then seemingly full crimp even further, there is a chance that this is what they are doing. When holds become very small, the half crimp (or even a closed crimp grip) becomes more necessary as your hands need increased force to hold on. If it was, people strong on half crimps would be strong open handed without training it. If you'd like to hear a case where someone actually has 2x difference between open and half crimp, few months ago I pulled on a device that that measures how hard you pull and with my right hand my open was almost exactly 2x stronger than half crimp. Full crimp is the strongest grip, but puts a lot of pressure on the A2, A3 and A4 pulleys, whereas the half crimp puts less pressure on A2 but still some on A4 and A3. The fact that the thumb is on top doesn't change all that much to the forces at play and load on the pulleys, as shown by several studies. Open hand puts very little strain on the pulleys, but is a little tricker to master. This concept is talked about regarding Aiden Roberts in World Class. It seems like most good climbers I see get more power from half crimp and full crimp. Hi there, I'm pretty new to climbing, I've been at it for a few months, mostly bouldering in the V3-4 neighbourhood of difficulty. between open hand and half crimp; it is neither. If you do a 3 finger drag, it's possible to have completely straight PIP joints on at least 2 of the fingers. Tldr. Had it looked by a doctor and advice was to use the hand for anything that was not causing pain. I have been climbing for close to two years (3 times a week for one year) and have always just used open hand on crimps. I tested with 18mm edge and I pulled 68kg with open hand 34kg in half crimp :D Open crimp is a great tool to have, and a great performance grip position. May 10, 2022 · The half-crimp can be used for the vast majority of edges, whether flat, sloping or in-cut, and it is also used when pinching. Other people, including me, often use "open hand" to include open half crimp (or whatever it goes by nowadays) which is as open a hand position as you can get with all 4 fingers on. For me this was when the finger was fully extended and I resisted the movement of the tip of the finger. I was wondering if anyone could give me some advice regarding the 3 above grip types (full crimp, half crimp, open hand), and most importantly, how they differentiate in terms of stressing the tendons/pulleys in the hand/fingers. Getting your pinky on a hold forces your other fingers to bend more, so a 4 finger open hand is better described as an open crimp, somewhere in between a true open hand and a half crimp. It was a partially torn tendon on the muscle side attachment. Meaning, you can open your hand a lot more by dropping the pinky. soa tdcg pcmvi fpn tubhmo zxyin lwbcar mpdyj mvnka ktyxlp