Lead rope solo backup reddit. The physicality is identical (for top rope belaying.

Lead rope solo backup reddit More complicated techniques are needed to solo an overnight alpine route or aid-solo a big wall. May 4, 2023 · Set up the rope going through the Taz Lov with the brake strand from the Taz going into the Revo (which side of the Revo DOES matter, one side of the Revo will be directly above the Taz and it must enter the Revo on this side to feed well), attach the Taz upright to its tether, and take your Revo backup sling and attach that to a belay biner on the second belay loop. I'm thinking a micro traxion backed up with a grigri 2 on a dynamic rope, but it sounds like a static rope is best for the traxion. Leaving easy to find instructions on Reddit will result in someone killing themselves as the vast majority of newbies lack partners so TRS seems like an easy solution to climbing r/LeadRopeSolo: To discuss the various techniques and equipment associated with Lead Rope Solo (aka. That’s why I went with the REVO, and I DO love it - I was just curious if I was doing it wrong. i never used a grigri while tr-solo so i can't tell, but i can say that my combo was an ascension and ropeman on separate strand and the ropeman didn't glide well. Getting the rope on the thing you want to climb can often be the hardest part of a TR solo project. ( think instead of placing gear or clipping bolts, you're pulling rope and tying knots at regular intervals to protect yourself) Good read, lots of lessons. Aug 14, 2018 · Now you have set up your belay, attached appropriately via your solo device, stacked your rope and decided on a backup, you're ready to climb. I am hoping this can eventually become the main place for all things rope solo. 1. If rope has chance of abrading over edges you can setup intermediate anchor below that feature using a clove hitch to a draw before that feature with rope above loose/will be unweighed untill unclipping the clove. Feb 3, 2022 · The arrows indicate the top of the pitch; (photo/Christian Black) Once the climber reaches the top of the pitch, the next step is to fix the rope and rappel the pitch to untie the bottom anchor. self belayed) climbing. ). Small, unobtrusive, and bomber. But again, gaining some experience first would be good. While creativity and problem-solving are valuable, this approach can lead to unforeseen risks, especially without a strong foundation in tried-and-true techniques. Whoever came up with that setup had a stroke of genius We too often see people with seemingly less experience trying to come up with innovative ways of building Lead Rope Solo (LRS) setups and backups. I'm maybe a 10+ trad climber so I rope solo around 5. After much reading, watching videos and practicing at home, I had my first rope solo session today. I use a Trango Vergo as a backup. Moved Permanently. Not too much changes solo climbing one pitch vs more than one pitch. The only deviced made for lead soloing (Silent Partner, Soloist) are out of production, so you are stuck going against the manufacturers recommendations. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Just got one myself. Pete Whittaker sent the Freerider in a day, rope solo style. I’ve actually seen videos of people doing that. Rope soloing is an essential self-rescue skill for any big wall. Do successfully rope solo using clove hitches, you're going to need the following equipment for self belay: Many locking carabiners (10 as a minimum) Gri-gri 10mm or thicker rope Solid Anchor Building Skills Aid Rack, Aiders, Ascenders, ATC I will do a video on that. it was a pain in the ass to take in slack as i climbed so i switched to butterfly knots on a strand instead of the ropeman (while waiting to buy a micro trax hehe) I've been going to a gym to get back into it, but I'm looking forward to getting some trad exposure now. In this instruc… Aug 16, 2022 · Gstring Climbing Grips Grigri lead rope solo Grigri hack Gstring Classics Gstring PROs RipCord RollBar adjusting difficulty hangboard lead rope-solo strength training 3D-Sling Chalkbag Chris Webb Parsons Gallows Gstring PRO Hanchor Lead Rope Solo Mt. Thank you all! I have tried the Gri Gri, which is fine for top rope but way to big for me to handle when lead belaying. You can use this technique to lead or top rope belay. I wouldn't solo lead with the gri-gri, unless you are talking about aid climbing. I've been using these techniques and I love the freedom it gives m Reddit threads are easy to find in Google and last forever. pdf | Powered by Box Jul 20, 2018 · lead rope solo review of wild country revo home testing for rope solo falls: Revo / Eddy / Grigri. Gri gri or gri gri + will work but will require you to manually pull rope through every once in a while. I will sometimes LRS up an easier route to then traverse into my project, build an anchor and then TRS the project. I use a single microtax Alex Huber has put up 14- multipitch routes rope solo, ground up. I set the line, rap down and coil up the extra rope. 9. But if you're doing normal top rope climbing, your belayer has a belay device, and that's it, no backup. I also don't waste time teaching people to belay on an ATC. Soloing is much more gear intensive. Just started using this rig and in the past three days have gotten over 1,200 ft of climbing in on it. ) Our videos are intended to give you more knowledge to make safer decisions for yourself. JFYI feeding rope in gri gri 2 is really pain in the ass so I would recommend the plus one with lead If you fall with the brake side of the rope already pulled down the revo will still lock up, and you'll need to release tension on the brake side before pulling it back down to disengage the locking mechanism. If you are looking for a device specifically for TR solo, I would recommend the Camp Lift. affix the ducks to my belay loop, the top held up with a bungee to a chest harness. When I rope solo I set up a single fixed line, usually with an equalizing figure 8 through biners at the anchors. It's a hassle compared to having a belayer, but it works :) Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now. Barghan in the same post also describes a clever way to manage the cache loops, which I use. Either way, have fun and be careful About Press Copyright Contact us Creators Advertise Developers Terms Privacy Policy & Safety How YouTube works Test new features NFL Sunday Ticket Press Copyright Jul 12, 2023 · Conclusion: These further tests have shown that that the revo is super good enough and well suited for lead rope solo climbing. When traveling in small rope party (2-3 persons) and in certain conditions (hard neve) you tie knots in between the persons into the rope. These skills are outside the scope of this article. ) Gerke Hoekstra is very experienced in lead rope solo climbing and tope rope solo climbing. You build your anchors the same, and climb the same. I'd like to get a static rope, but at the moment my rope budget is going towards halves the ascension ''glides'' really smoothly on the rope as you climb. Nobody to climb with, so I'm interested in doing some soloing, TR to start with. WildCountry Revo - First Impressions. To me this seems like an inefficient system because you have to pull twice as much rope through the grigri. That said, compared to a Grigri it's easier to misuse it while lead belaying and I never lend mine to people who belay me. I use the Soloist, but I think they stopped manufacturing it. The Grigri is a more versatile device. I think even though you’ve never done multi pitch you’d be fine going for one solo as long as you do your research. Is the route you want to TR solo at an ideal angle? Lead climb the pitch, with one end of the rope tied to the current pitch's bottom anchor, and a lead solo belay device (upside-down GriGri, El Mudo, Silent Partner, rolling clove hitch 🫣 etc) attaching the rope to your harness. And yes we are scared of falling. If you can belay on a Grigri, you can belay on an ATC. The MT is configured to hold the rope such that it feeds towards the Revo. Works well, seemed a bit touchy while lowering to find the sweet spot between crawling and free fall. Everest Pocket Rocks Top Rope Solo Trango Vergo adjusting adjusting difficulty. The best current setup for top rope soloing is a combo of the Trango Vergo and the Microtrax. Leading possibly, toproping certainly. So far I've just used my regular fat dynamic rope, being careful of padding edges. Also it shears the rope at like 4kn-- no good even if it did work. Petzl does not approve using any of their devices for lead rope solo. Google it to find pictures of how to orient the devices. PPS: Using a prusik will allow you to create a loop or slack-point in a system to attach/affix a belay device. Press J to jump to the feed. I hope you will find it useful and not overly complicated to use. Start climbing, regularly feeding rope out of the bag and letting a loop dangle. Gear, systems and everything else! Falls closer to anchor with any slack in the system will be more jarring etc than any top rope or lead fall. It may lead you to chose to NOT Rope Solo even on top rope. The physicality is identical (for top rope belaying. For free climbing, solo on lead, you want a proper device. One of the biggest dangers in lead rope soloing is back feeding. So far I've only used it for top rope belaying. The process is simple; as you climb the rope feeds out from your bag (your spare rope), through your self-feeding solo device, and creates 'climbing rope' for you to progress upwards. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts r/ropesolo: A place to discuss rope solo climbing. I use the GG to TR solo on slab climbs when I can go hands free and tie brake knots. When said knot reaches the channel it has to be pulled through and will absorb a decent amount of force doing so. I use an edelrid eddy, and a mini haulbag. so why would you climb a multipitch if your never climbed a single pitch lead soloing. They are probably ~ 30 kilos heavier than me. Gri gri as a main device and prusik which is held by a thin other accessory cord and attached to backpack chest belt (so it can break/ unclip in case of a fall) as a backup and cache loop. At the top of the pitch, set a top anchor, and remove the rope from your lead solo belay device. If you take a fall with a bunch of unnoticed slack in your system, your fall length will be significantly higher than expected. Rope soloing is a technique where you belay yourself instead of being belayed by your partner. Backup can be a second rope, knots, a second device, etc. A Petzl Jumar Ascender, Micro-Trax, Wild Country Ropeman are several devices that allow you to attach it to an already loaded rope. A solid anchor is essential, and a backup rope + backup progress capture device are recommended. And I had a blast! After some consideration I… Search through all the posts on the toprope solo facebook group & Petzl's tech tips : To read for self-belaying - Petzl USA. The home of Climbing on reddit. No need to switch devices for lowering. (Rope Weight and Strand Separation) Double check your system! I know it sounds dumb and redundant; nerves are generally high Feb 27, 2021 · I don't lead rope solo anymore, but when i did, the best setup was a GG (and I've tried them all including the SP, Soloist, and Revo), facing backwards and a cache loop held by a minitrax connected to a gear loop. Or I'll just take on the rope for a second and tie a knot since I'm TR soloing and don't give a shit anyway. At the bottom of the climb, I coil the rope and hang it 3-4 feet off the ground to help weight the rope so it slides through my gri-gri easier. - The Yann Camus videos are kinda weird but useful. PE is ideal (doesn’t break so Hi climbers, I’m planning on top rope soloing a 50m single pitch, anchor at the top, throw my 70m rope down, rap, and then climb back up. This would eliminate your issue of the backup knots getting stuck as you lower because the fixed line does not move. Flake rope into bag, build a nest of cams at the bottom or put a locker on a bolt. for TR soloing, I use a Ropeman 1 with a micro-traxion backup. Discuss different gear options, your own systems, and anything else that may relate to climbing by yourself with a rope! There is quite a bit of information out there but it can be very hard to find and is all over the place. It’s a reasonable solution, adds little weight, provides an imperfect but usable backup should he drop his Guide, and equips him for self-rescue (a Guide, two friction hitches, and a sling make for a rope ascending system in a pinch. I climb 1-2 moves up and clove the rope coil, my approach shoes and maybe a water bottle to the bottom to give it some weight. Reduce the risk of stuck rope ends by covering the end knots (anchor side AND dead end side) by a kitchen funnel. I don't use backup knots usually, but may if my gut dictates it. So, properly stack the rope in the backpack and you will be fed properly. It seems like Alex is likely a predecessor to Fabian in a similar GriGri1 with multiple cache loops method. Any suggestions? Thanks, Jon Roped Solo (lead) Climbing With Grigri: WARNING: Climbing is inherently dangerous! Climbing solo is even more dangerous, follow this instructable at your own risk. I usually will clip a backup knot or two to my belay loop somewhere along the way. In the same way that red pointing is harder than pink pointing a trad route because of the additional time it takes to place inspect gear, lead rope solo has some additional steps which overall make it That said, if you're going to do it then top rope solo is safer. IMPORTANT: double check you've rigged it correctly! (Solo Belay Devices) Rig your rope weight and strand separation system if you're choosing to use one. . Seems to feed very smoothly, once you get a feel for belaying sideways rather than up and down. The document has moved here. Lead Rope Solo Of A Classic SE Climb. Going to use a standard grigri on my belay loop and a Petzl shunt as a backup on my leg loop (but also pas’d up to my main harness loops). I think I will try all your suggestions next time I’m lowering my buddies. Keeping the two strands separated (with one finger or else by pulling them through two karabiners) while stacking helps a lot. Whenever I read threads about top rope solo, everyone agrees on using one device to self-belay, and some kind of backup in case your belay device malfunctions. It's basically a Grigri but the rope runs through it in a straight way when unlocked, so it feeds a bit better (didn't compare to a proper ascender). The setup I mentioned allows you to climb freely without having to mess with the rope. Thanks for sharing this, I just got a couple of micro-traxions to top-rope-solo with, will definitely give lead-rope-soloing a go now too. I generally feel better about lead solo roped stuff than toproping. Peronally, I use a combination of grigri and petzl asap for lead rope solo, and either a jumar and microtraxion or a jumar and grigri for top rope solo. This can be TR solo, lead or aid solo. Or check it out in the app stores     TOPICS Lead rope solo climbing community. Rope soloing is really dangerous because there is no second guessing or second set of eyes on your system. Lukasz Dudek sent a wildly overhanging 14b multipitch in the alps LRS style. home testing for rope solo falls: Revo, Eddy, Grigri (Supertopo responses) First Look: Wild Country Revo Revamps Assisted Belay (Gearjunkie. It's probably the most functional rope grabber on the market. The issue here isn't the device. No teeth. I think BigRed’s comment is more around the fact that lead rope soloing is significantly harder than just trying to red point the same route. With the current drought and dropping temps it seemed like a perfect time to climb the normally seeping crack. You just have to worry about that rope weight, and OP has asked about multipitch climbing but also asking about using a grigri to lead solo meaning they probably have never lead soloed before with the grigri. Rig your selected belay device a meter or two from your anchor. I carry an ascender and grigri. Since we will not evaluate you on the wall all the time, we cannot make you Rope Soloers but we still want to help you reach more confidence on your The Trango Cinch is Trango's old assisted belay device. These are used for either Rope-access, Route setting and Lead/Top Rope solo. When somebody falls into a crevasse, the rope will cut into the lip and form a small channel. I keep rope in the backpack. So I had backup knots, but can see that it may be the best device for rope solo. Posted by u/Ahabs_other_pegleg - 6 votes and 27 comments Moved Permanently. Easier to make and keep backups on a lead line in your pack, and the "seriousness" of lead climbing makes me a lot less complacent. If it was configured to grab and prevent rope from going to the Revo then it now doesn't slide on the rope the direction you want it to and you'd have to manually feed it as you're climbing. Only the basic technique is described here. Does the route you want to climb have top access to hang the rope? If not, you’ll have to get the rope of there by other means (lead rope soloing an adjacent pitch, aiding, etc. Jan 24, 2013 · That it will take a Fall factor 2 without chopping the rope didn't much ease my mind as it was new, and plenty of people have been dropped with partners using the "Failsafe" Gri gri and Cinchs. It's counter intuitive (at least to me) but fed and clipped amazingly well. BUT these devices have not been made for this kind of abuse and should only be used with a backup knot! It eliminates the need for the rappel change over at the top of the climb which is how most accidents occur, and more closely mimics the mechanics of lead climbing. Better than a GriGri for TR solo since the rope runs almost straight through the device in the open position so if you put some weight on the end of the rope, you don't have to manually pull it through. This is when the weight of your rope causes slack to accumulate at the bottom of your climb. Andy Kirkpatrick has a really good book on the topic. Hello and welcome to my first instructable. In my opinion, it would be better to rig your grigri to a fixed line and use backup knots as you climb. com) Wild Country Revo – A Revolutionary Belay Device (Weightmyrack Jun 18, 2023 · The BD Gridlock carabiner (in the magnetron version, which is no longer made) is what Brent Barghan uses with an unmodified 3rd generation grigri, as described in his thoughtful blog post on lead rope soloing. - Dave Macleod's use of the shunt with no backup is generally agreed to be super dangerous, but I think his TRS videos are super useful for how he goes over some of the mechanics of TRS on hard climbs (cloving to pieces to redirect, tricks for keeping yourself in on steep terrain). I found building the anchor to be limiting. Set it up with my rope just to get a feel for lead belaying. Also this manual is specifically for lead-solo but there is a section on TR solo in there: Lead rope solo free climbing. Or it may lead you to choose to Rope Solo. Top rope, lead, multi pitch, rope ascension, single-line raps; the device does a lot. Without modifying your gri-gri, I don't know of any way to get the rope to feed hands-free. Grabs one rope, two ropes, slips at around 3kn so disapates force, releasable under load. It's people willing to trust their one life to one device attached to one rope with one carabiner. My fixed line is thick, semi-static line. But one thing that I think I would do differently is from the top to clean, I would rappel with an ATC & third-hand instead of lowering off the grigri. luqwev axmo lihlsxnj urnd wdxx mgx vzhl qawnt vhtv izwxdall