Climbing nuts vs hexes forum. For unknown long climbs .
Climbing nuts vs hexes forum. For unknown long climbs .
Climbing nuts vs hexes forum Open your mind! Bob Threading Nuts Nuts can also be used as a thread. if you can place a hex = elephant bomb proof! but the weight, take only what you expect to place size 3 & 6 if you have a full set of nuts. Sep 15, 2014 · CGR gives the Kouba Climbing Nut Sets a full test to see if value means performance. They are also lighter than the equivalent sized cam. These are “standard” sizes to look for when first building your rack. Still love the hexes for clanking up the old-school 5. Sep 28, 2010 · Hexes come in more sizes and I think are slightly heavier than Torques. Good places to stand and place and fiddle with a hex are good places to break an ankle. Poke the wire loop through the hole, then clip a quickdraw to it. Into my sport climbing but now i want something a little bit more uncertain! TRAD climbing!!!! now i know that a wall nut is just a passive safety device and a CAM is strong like bull!! buy wall nuts or so much cheaper plus you can but them in packs like beer!! mattb595 Posts: 122 Joined: Wed Mar 18, 2009 10:27 am Real Name: Matthew Bekker Location: Cape Town Saved Content. They come in a variety of shapes and sizes to fit different cracks and offer versatile protection. Mar 6, 2010 · Was thinking of adding some hexes to my rack for winter climbing, but then saw the DMM torque nuts. . See full list on rei. Jan 13, 2022 · Hexes? Post by jgb » Thu Mar 01, 2012 2:11 pm I don't get to climb a hell of alot these days so when I do its usually on easy routes (F2 or 14/15), trad that is. Where as nuts fill a much larger need (that is protecting sections cams can't or protecting a section better than a cam could), hexes rarely offer many Apr 17, 2011 · In reply to Jamie Bankhead: I second avoidance of wired hexes. video-----Although "Rock Climb" will have more than 100 videos (7 hours+ of content), the pro To echo what others have said I now tend only to carry the big purple wild country hex and the smallest two in that range. I still have my trusty rack of a double set of nuts, 10 hexes and 5 cams. They eventually became ‘hex centric’ in that each side was of a different length. Hexes are an old type of climbing protection that are seldom seen on climber's racks since the introduction of cams. Torques come in only 4 sizes but DMM say that they cover as much as Hexes anyway. Nov 3, 2011 · Camming a hex in a vertical crack takes practice and time. Nov 12, 2019 · I can only comment on summer and from a point of view of thinking that hexes are not good enough to deserve to go on a standard rack because you'd be better off with nuts and cams. That said: Dyneema is stronger/lighter than wire. Photo Galleries; My Photo Gallery; Latest Photos; Weekly Top 10; Videos; Latest Videos; Categories; Hashtags; Athletes; Search Aug 28, 2020 · The smallest hexes are the sizes of medium to large nuts but asking about nuts vs hexes is kind of like asking about nuts versus cams. Ive been using the Torques for the past few months and theyve been great. The main advantage of hexes is they will work in dirty, wet or icy cracks where cams are likely to slide out. Hexes are lighter, cheaper, and scare the bears away. In this update, we purchased 7 of the best sets and slid them into cracks of all sizes across the United States. Mar 15, 2017 · In reply to benmason: In the states you often see climbers carrying mainly cams and only a few nuts, maybe a maximum of 10. They are certainly another tool in the chest for trad climbing. Feb 16, 2023 · Kouba Hex nuts come in sets of 6, ranging from 13 mm all the way to 44. Good for bail gear or aid possibly, but I don't ever carry them even for that, anymore. Sep 16, 2011 · In reply to derms: Seems a bit of an "apple versus Pears" type question. Jun 21, 2022 · It's because hexes are best thought of (and most often used as) giant nuts (which can be used as cams in some situations), whereas tricams are best thought of as cams and used as such. In aid climbing situations i have ripped the same nut placements twice, it was a loose flake Sep 14, 2007 · Prefer Nuts when the placement is good and quick. Jan 8, 2024 · In the late 1980s into the 1990s in UK climbing, there was a decisive move away from a mix of individually racked hexes of all sizes & medium nuts on cord towards using only larger hexes, plus nuts on wire (with quickdraws) due to ease of use. Any advice on which would be the best addition for winter would be greatly received. Photo Galleries; My Photo Gallery; Latest Photos; Weekly Top 10; Videos; Latest Videos; Categories; Hashtags; Athletes; Search Jan 8, 2024 · My Forums My Topics Search Forums Premier Posts Posting Guidelines . People learn with nuts, thus hexes get bought as giant nuts. 6. Climbing nuts, also known as chocks or stoppers, are passive protection devices that wedge into cracks to secure the climber's rope. The smallest two kinda serve as "big nuts" (not quite right analogy I know) and the purple because buying more than one big cam is an expensive hobby and nothing feels quite as bomber as a well placed purple hex Hexes? Post by jgb » Thu Mar 01, 2012 2:11 pm I don't get to climb a hell of alot these days so when I do its usually on easy routes (F2 or 14/15), trad that is. Find it difficult to justify standing still for ages trying to fiddle in nuts or hex's when a cam can be placed in seconds. Search For large cracks they are great. Slings are softer on the rock than nuts so try using a sling as a thread in this situation, or look for something else more solid. The extendable slings on DMM ones are well annoying and the ones on wire have no benefit. I only use nuts for non-cam-placements. com Feb 20, 2021 · In short, cams will go most places hexes will go (more quickly and easily), but hexes won't go a lot of places cams will. Hexes are cheaper than cams, cams can "walk" hexes don't, they are lighter than a cam and can take a beating especially if you do chimney climbs alot. 25” wide—and go up to about 1. Jan 24, 2023 · Trad climbing involves a wide array of gear, including nuts, hexes, cams, Big Bros, and more, to ensure climbers stay safe. Hexes were an extension of the machine nuts that climbing started using for protection. climbing protection: when to use cams vs. petestack 06 Mar 2010 Moved Permanently. In reply to derms: Seems a bit of an "apple versus Pears" type question. Tricams have a reputation for being fiddly and slow to place, thus people buy cams instead. e. Sep 22, 2009 · Of course the obvious answer to the avid hex fan who wants all the advantages of the Torque nuts' more modern design but needs more pieces than four, is simply to buy two sets! You can read Graham Desroy's full thoughts on the Torque Nuts on Silvia Fitzpatrick's excellent and informative blog. ETA: If you do get hexes, get the WC rockcentrics or DMM torque nuts. May 6, 2008 · I'd say skip the hexes altogether and use the money to buy doubles of cams. I've never liked the cams much and would always go with a hex if I could and still will, admitedly on F2 I'm generally not hanging upside down on one finger when I place them. I carry 3 or so hexes on any unknown trad line where they look appropriate. In the sizes that nuts are available on wire, then I think nuts are better, but if the question were hexes versus cams, when getting to say a 2. Moved Permanently. People make jokes about placing hexes just for the LOLs with their friends and joke about using that one HUGE bomber hex everyone seems to have. Oct 1, 2011 · In reply to slapperv6: I place cams on all possibly placements, over nuts. In reply to derms: Seems a bit of an "apple versus Pears" type question. We tested each through a wide range of fissures, scar pins, parallel-sided cracks, around blocks, and the like. Faster, simpler and good enugh. 3” for wedgeshaped nuts and 3. if the rock type is suited to offsets have a set of theirs also. Help . ive used both torque nuts and rockcentrics and the torques overlap 2 rockcentric sizes i. Obviously this resulted in carrying more equipment so was heartily encouraged by gear manufacturers. However, they do have advantages over cams in certain situations. They mostly protect very different sizes of cracks. Nuts=Stoppers Have a full set. Torques also come with an extendable sling, which the Hexes do not have. Mar 1, 2016 · I'm new to outdoor climbing and am trying to build a solid rack for all sort of top rope anchors. Write for UKC Gear Latest Gear Gear News Gear Reviews Competitions Latest Deals Product Videos Aug 8, 2022 · A typical set of nuts, also called wires or chocks, consists of 10 to 12 pieces that start small—less than . In which case, you can either put them on the same carabiner with your big nuts (for small hexes), or clip them further back on your harness on their own separate carabiner (for bigger sizes). Price: £13 each Weight: 54-146 grams Moved Permanently. Have used both torque nuts and rockcentrics quite a bit. This works best with large nuts. If you already have some cams i'd definately choose 4 Torque nuts over 1 extra cam. The reason behind this was that someone trying to make their own at home wasn’t very accurate as cutting and made it by accident as realised that the eccentric shape work Sep 28, 2010 · Saved Content. If you must carry a full rack, they can be racked in groups of 2-4 per carabiner. Personally I don't carry hexes - never got on with them and they just serve to make me sound like an alpine cow; they just sit there till I get to the top so might as well not bother. Also have a few micros of offsets & stopper/rock/nuts. I will not be setting a top rope just off these nuts or hexes but just to incorporate them. Bought some, placed them about three times and sold them on again. Standard nuts are the backbone of any traditional climbers rack. 5 cam or over then it would be a financial decision for me. When Dyneema wears, it doesn't leave wires sticking out that jab into your hand and give you tetanus. Aug 1, 2010 · In reply to Roger Irrelevant: i have a full set of nuts (1-10) and then went a bought the torque nuts. What do you guys suggest nuts or hexes which brands and what sizes are most commonly used so I know where to start buying equipment. 5” for six-sided hexes. Hexes? Post by jgb » Thu Mar 01, 2012 2:11 pm I don't get to climb a hell of alot these days so when I do its usually on easy routes (F2 or 14/15), trad that is. The document has moved here. Aug 12, 2004 · Hexes placements are not as common as normal nuts - I probably place 20 or more Rock placements to one Hex, but they are still very useful and there are routes where a hex is the only thing that fits. I usually bring a few hexes with me if I read in the guide book that they are helpful but I like the versatility of a cam more. So cam's would get my vote in a parrallel crack. 5 mm in terms of possible crack sizes in which to wedge them. In the beginning of your trad climbing career you should focus on building a solid nut rack and learning to place them well. When I started trad climbing, I couldn't afford the cams, so I led exclusively on nuts, hexes, and tricams for probably 40 of my first 50 pitches on gear. Generally use whatever I can place fastest, so use cams regularly, unless there is a slot which I can see a nut will just slip into without faffing. In Kouba, we understand specific needs of every climber, that's, why we offer ten different shapes of nuts and three different types of cams. Read Time - 9 minutes. Photo Galleries; My Photo Gallery; Latest Photos; Weekly Top 10; Videos; Latest Videos; Categories; Hashtags; Athletes; Search mattb595 Posts: 122 Joined: Wed Mar 18, 2009 10:27 am Real Name: Matthew Bekker Location: Cape Town mattb595 Posts: 122 Joined: Wed Mar 18, 2009 10:27 am Real Name: Matthew Bekker Location: Cape Town DMM Wales are the only manufacturer of rock climbing and industrial access gear based in the UK -- I make videos for them to show off the features and great Wired Hexentric. Double Cap. Apr 23, 2022 · Nuts, Hexes and Tricams for Rock Climbinghttps://rockclimb. Saved Content. Anything bigger than a size 11 nut just flops if you try and place it with the wire yet are just rigid enough to be more annoying on your harness. WC every day for me. Nuts Buying Guide. Torque nuts less curved profile make them slighty harder to place IMO, and they do have a tendency to get proper stuck when weighted. However, holes like this usually suggest poor rock quality. Nov 3, 2011 · Saved Content. They do also work in irregular/chossy/slimy cracks. May 5, 2022 · Hexes? Post by jgb » Thu Mar 01, 2012 2:11 pm I don't get to climb a hell of alot these days so when I do its usually on easy routes (F2 or 14/15), trad that is. Posted by u/deadphish1 - 9 votes and 35 comments The old age question we been asking since the start!!. TN 1=Rockcentric 5+6, TN 2=Rock 6 Oct 31, 2024 · Our climbing experts have been testing the best climbing nuts and stoppers for over 10 years and over 15 different sets. Once I started climbing on gear routes that physically challenged my climbing ability the rapid placement of a cam became welcome[1]. Photo Galleries; My Photo Gallery; Latest Photos; Weekly Top 10; Videos; Latest Videos; Categories; Hashtags; Athletes; Search Saved Content. the size 1-4 Torques are pretty much similar to the wild country rocks 11-14, so they are great for the bigger sizes. Have also used hexes a belay stations to save cams and used hexes to bail off routes in emergency. My hexes sit at the bottom of my gear closet now and have since the day I doubled my my cams. For everyday cragging, you won't miss them. Most of the time, you'll only be carrying one or two hexes. Double up 2-7. Never used Hexes so cant comment on them. May 2020. But no crack is truly parrallel so you should find a spot to place a bomber hex somewhere on the route. For unknown long climbs . nuts TRADITIONAL CLIMBING, ALSO CALLED TRAD CLIMBING OR JUST “TRAD,” is a particular style of roped climbing that involves placing your own protective equipment as you move up a climb, then removing it when you’re done. Hex nuts can be placed in three different orientations when turned on their axis, thanks to their tapered, asymmetric side faces, allowing a versatile use in a multitude of cracks. Hexes are just a footnote in climbing history for practical applications these days. Nov 23, 2016 · Hey Matt, if you are going up the learning curve in trad climbing, I highly recommend you buying hexes. Oct 17, 2024 · I have used the BD wired hexes, DMM Torque nuts and WC Hexcentrics. Performance *** (Hexes ****) Value **** We are always keen to test climbing hardwear here… CLIMBING NUTS, CAMS AND HEXES. I have ripped two cams, one in a fall and one in a "hang", both was crappy for start. Since moving back to NC, we used them rarely and when we do its usually one of the smaller sizes. Just can't get on with them. Photo Galleries; My Photo Gallery; Latest Photos; Weekly Top 10; Videos; Latest Videos; Categories; Hashtags; Athletes; Search Granted, I see most of the "hate" on online forums but people seem to mock the idea of using hexes when "you can just use a cam". qgjobspzwugiismgonlpuxpytgulazxdmqwjlosqejggd