Best gear for multi pitch sport climbing reddit. Usually get a couple hundred pitches of trad in each year.

Best gear for multi pitch sport climbing reddit 10c/d in the gym. If you pack not that heavy like for indoor climbing wall, light climbing plan, etc. wait 5-10 seconds. In the last several years, this technique has gained traction as a recommended rigging in many European nations, and has since crept into North American Me and my sister will be climbing in Yosemite soon and are looking to do a multi pitch sport climb. There are some multi-pitch sport climbing destinations scattered If you aspire to do multi-pitch climbing, you really don't want a rope that's thicker than 9. yell off belay. If you're planning on aiding a big wall obviously you want something like a Cadillac, but if you're just doing a couple pitches or single pitch, just buy a cheap sport harness. Trad ropes need to withstand abuse, which typically means choosing a workhorse (read: heavier) rope. You are expected to know how to confidently lead traditional climbs before you take the course, and they will not be covering gear placement, anchor building or anything else related to traditional climbing (i. put in belay device. Nowadays, gym culture has taken over and some people seem to have narrowed it down to different types of gym climbing, or indoor/outdoor sport climbing and bouldering. . go line up on the south face of the column. But yeah, not sport, not a direct answer to the questions. Clove into the shelf. Keeps the front 4 loops clear for cams/nuts and slings while I climb. I'm interested to hear what everyone's own best practices for bailing on a route entail. build anchor. May 27, 2025 · Best Climbing Shoes at a Glance. 11- sport. Generally this is defined by whoever created (established) the climbing route. You may enjoy some of the more rompy multi pitch sport climbs like “the Young and the rackless”, Royal Flush. Most of it is not "sport" due to the more runout nature of the climbs. It used to mean multi-pitch, single-pitch, trad, sport, bouldering, gym, etc. Some REI runner vest. I looked some up on the mountain project, but it is not very good at telling the best climbs in the area or which are going to be stacked with people. Multi pitch sport climbing shouldn't be too difficult a leap to a guy leading 11s. I've already researched it a bit, but I'd just like one more point of reference. 8 on Rogers rock, they should be more than comfortable on the regular route at chapel pond. Sterling’s new Quest 9. If you’re a competent single-pitch trad climber, you’re likely well on your way. Apr 4, 2023 · Goat Wall was our main objective, but we’d planned to hit Index and Leavenworth along the way, tagging a few other bolted moderate, multi-pitch routes to warm up. Is there any ethic on climbing on moist rock? It seems like solid rock. You can camp there as well for free. Any tips as I get prepared for the weekend? I'm getting a bit nervous/excited. I think if they climbed a 5. Best Outdoor All-Rounder: Scarpa Arpia V ($169) Best Sport/Mixed Shoe: Unparallel Qubit ($186) Best Bouldering Shoe: Scarpa Drago XT ($229) Best for Beginners: Butora Rubicon ($150) Best Shoe for Steep Routes: La Sportiva Mandala ($209) Best Training Shoe: Scarpa Veloce L ($175) Best Pure Slipper: La Sportiva My suggestion: look into the region at the Wilder Kaiser there are several multi pitch sport routes. The SPI Course will not teach you skills, it teaches you systems. Needless to say, it was completely terrifying! I couldn't push any further after that and my partner couldn't do it. When a company designs a new suite of shoes, they send pairs to us and our testers, and we climb in them, compare notes, write a review, and then, later, do a roundup of the latest and greatest releases of the year. Once I get to the 2 bolts at the top of the first pitch: I need to anchor in. I used to predominately climb in Yosemite and the Eastern Sierras. Apr 14, 2020 · The Sterling Quest 9. Cedar Rock in North Carolina closer to Pittsburgh than Foster Falls, and you can find some pretty spectacular multi-pitch sport there. With that said: basic gear for multi pitch free climbing would include a helmet for each climber, rock shoes, chalk bag, a dynamic rope in the 10mm or greater range and of length in excess of 60m (more common in 70m or greater these days), possibly a second rope depending on how long the rappels will be to get off the route, climbing protection Apr 19, 2022 · - large gear loops (and rear haul loop/gear loop) and ice clipper slots (ideally 4) - comfort and fit: (subjective) Top of the list for me: Arc’teryx harnesses: the FL365 was perfect for me. Free climbing = Using gear only as a safety measure. Harness isn't bulky but holds a lot of gear and is padded enough to be comfortable on multi pitch. In most cases, multi-pitch climbing requires knowledge of traditional climbing equipment and tactics. Multi-pitch sport climbing & Via Ferattas in Austria(Salzburg, Innsbruck) Hi Folks, I will be traveling with my partner to Austria for 2-3 weeks of via ferratas and climbing in July. Somebody mentioned Jtree I would recommend against that. This has generally been sufficient for the multi-pitch routes I've done. 7s aren't that different from multi-pitch routes at that grade- you're just climbing up a ladder/staircase for longer on a multi-pitch. It's just so much more gear + time efficient and makes me feel extra safe. For example, the leader must place their own protection and build their own anchors using traditional gear. I'm sure you could find something further North, too. 1000+ routes of all different grades, lots of good hiking, rad multi-pitch, and in general a beautiful place. Aug 20, 2017 · Time on the rock, good friends, and taking a number of courses in the climbing area can help you develop this knowledge. Jan 13, 2022 · As a result, belay stances accumulate fixed protection. What I'll add, and this is good for all climbing disciplines, is knowing some self-rescue techniques. I remember it being very chill except for maybe 1 pitch where the climbing is steep (pitch 4 or 5) and that section is about 20’. 9) climbs for those just getting into this new challenge: Charlotte’s Web (Conroy’s Castle – 5. I struggle to find anything that's women specific because I have a very short back and all the backpacks I've tried so far were way too tall on me - I wouldn't be able to reach my chalkbag and sometimes they even restricted my ability to look up with a helmet on. Modest gear skills can get you up some easy routes for sure, but if you're doing this stuff without courses or a mentor (which was my path, I'm 100% self taught, which is totally possible) take it slow and steady, don't get too stoked on the idea of alpine climbing and get out of your depth. 8)—a 120-foot hand-crack splitter established in 1965—a temptation my partner Alex and I could not resist on our ascent in 2015. There is a whole new section that is not in any guidebooks (maybe Squamish Sport Climbing by Kevin Mclane and Nic Vissers) called Electric Avenue. My go-to is a 4-gear loop harness with a gear sling. Other places like the Utah desert almost have no nut placements because the cracks tend to be perfectly parallel. The goal is to have your team in synch, with both climbers working together to get the leader moving. climb a bunch of multi-pitch free routes. 8)—perhaps the best way to climb the route. I almost always use a bomber natural anchor when available though. After 4 years of bouldering, sport climbing, and being gym rats, me and my brother are finally taking a climbing trip to tackle some multi-pitch sport routes. The 5th gear loop on the Small size was also basically useless since it was overlapped on either side by the two back gear loops. 10a). Instead of attempting to sort out which old pin or stopper is best, you just use everything and tie it all off with a girth hitch. But there is definitely some two pitch multi pitch routes, that are really great, at Lake George (Shelving Rock) and at Snowy Mountain (near indian lake, NY). but at least bivy at dinner ledge. 5-3. 7 that you could probably do with a rack of nuts. 10 (you will go faster the more free climbing you can do). We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. RIGHT!? I can't imagine anyone who uses and likes the Autana actually does anything more than single pitch sport. I've heard that Arcteryx harnesses aren't too comfortable for things like hanging belays. From there take it to the easy multi-pitch trad routes. 1 large pear shaped or HMS ‘biner for clipping through the rope and a smaller D ‘biner to secure the belay device to the anchor. For sport in July in CA, your best bets are Clark Canyon and Sonora Pass Highway. I took the liberty of doing a search on MP for some in the area. Hi, I'm looking for a backpack to take multipitch climbing next month. AR395 would work with the sacrifice of the fixed leg loop preference. 6-5. [edit: note, you will want to look at the climbs individually. I tend to avoid non-officially-documented behaviour of climbing gear, but maybe I simply looked at the wrong PDF :-/ Edit: Ok, found it, but this was not in the package I bought! May 22, 2024 · Though it’s a good pitch, it’s most often skipped for Reppy’s Crack (5. But I'm also comparing it to the solutions so I know those 2 shoes are very different I have experience on single pitch trad and some experience on simple multi pitch trad climbs, but I’ve never led more complicated, longer trad climbs. hopefully they start climbing in next 30 sec. Lots of clean easy single pitch, and then one decent length multi pitch. become solid in all disciplines (crack, slab, ow, chimney) at least 5. Are there good… My girlfriend and I have two days to spend at Red Rock in mid-march. Add on a potential rope drag and you'll be working harder to pull the rope through the belay than you work actually climbing the What do you mean by all rounders? It seems that the definition is changing. I am climbing with somebody that has a bit of experience with multis so I'm looking forward to an educational day out. So it will be interesting to place gear in those positions. The route saves the best pitch for last, with a beautiful and exposed arête. Getting comfortable with such things like multi-pitch sport (to get into the mental headspace), single pitch trad (need that gear knowledge), multi-pitch trad with bolted anchors (last step before going for completely trad). Mar 11, 2022 · Move between face climbing and cracks on fractured rock on pitches one and two. Usually get a couple hundred pitches of trad in each year. While we are both strong lead climbers, neither of us have any experience (nor the gear yet) in multi-pitch climbing. You say you will be starting on 2-3 pitch sport routes, generally 2-3 pitch sport routes in approachable grades are super crowded. So I'm wondering what you guys think are the best/most comfortable shoe for sport and multi pitch that can be used all day. Gear placements here are scanty—a single bolt might ease your mind—but ample holds and pretty views of Big Cottonwood will dissuade any hesitation. Never placed a cam or a nut in my life, but I've been climbing about 6 years, sport climb competently in the . 6mm provides that workhorse durability yet still handles like a smaller-bore redpoint rope—at 61 g/m, the 70m weighs less than 10 lbs, light given its 8-UIAA-falls rating. I only ever have 1 command -- off belay. It's Sugarloaf mountain. TL;DR terms Aid climbing = Using gear in the actual climbing. Here’s a list of our picks for the best multi pitch (5. A new area just opened up that has some really long slab multi-pitch routes. Red Rock, near Las Vegas, has some great multi-pitch sport I hear (in addition to tons of trad). But really, multi-pitch sport is not what Yosemite is all that renowned for. Really though- single-pitch sub 5. Hansche jams the splitter crack on Moby Grape’s alternative first pitch, Reppy’s Crack (5. Based on the reading I've done, it's recommended that if you use a PAS for belaying a follower, you want to tie in with something else (a sling, a quickdraw, whatever) to the 2nd bolt for redundancy. 35L version with that gear setting will be painful for your shoulder and painful to you lack of enough space. However, there are some exceptions, with places like El Portrero Chico, Mexico ( 2 ) being the most well-known. The nain tower of drei Zinnen is a UIAA 3+ for example. It doesn't fit my shoes :( but the water bladder placements are perfect for easy access. I’ve been climbing about 5 years (trad for 5, sport for 3), and I climb up to 5. See full list on outdoorgearlab. com May 12, 2017 · To operate a belay station on a multi-pitch climb you need at least 3 locking ‘biners but it’s nice to have 4. Leavenworth local Jessica Campbell shaking out on the sustained second pitch of Walking Legend (5. I have plans to follow a bunch of routes this summer with experienced and knowledgeable folks from the semi local climbing club, so I'm sure many questions will get answered with time. Climb on in Squamish goes on sale periodically. Having said that, if you are climbing in an area with bolted belays, it simplifies things tremendously (opposed to building gear anchors). It's a 5 pitch sport climb rated 19 (5. 9 in the valley, preferably 5. ATC guide in the master point and go. First off: I took the course in August. I mainly do bouldering and wear LS solutions. You can use the search tool on mountainproject to find some climbs that would suit you. Yes! ADK would be a 4-5 hour drive. 5. Again: personal preference at its best :) Moreover, now I am checking the technical notice and Petzl doesn't explain the top-belay settings. I got by for years on granite multi pitch with a single rack from . Willing to lead up to 6a but am OK following as well. Edit again: So it seems like it my be rainy but the rock dries quickly. Max lead… Sep 23, 2022 · To this day, most multi-pitch climbing worldwide is still completed with traditional climbing gear and basic techniques. Now me and a couple friends are getting into multipitch climbs and I want to know the best ways to build an anchor, belay, switch off, etc. May 20, 2022 · But the thing about climbing quickly is that it’s not necessarily about the climbing—it’s more about doing everything else efficiently. take rope tight. I tried out the LS finales and I wasn't really that impressed with its performance. And yes we are scared of falling. climbing without bolted pro or anchors). start pulling up rope. If I could buy again I’d probably just buy the bd cams. Prince of Darkness - good if you hate your toes and want to teach them a lesson. Desert Rock Sports is an awesome gear shop just 15 minutes from Red Rock. As the leader: climbing, get to anchor. Also you’re gonna want way more alpine draws if you’re doing multi pitch, especially if routes wander. put them on belay. There you can improve your rope management and sense for exposure. Sep 13, 2023 · Multi-Pitch Sport Climbing. I’m looking to buy a climbing pack, I’m not sure if it is to much to ask, but I was looking for a pack I can use for both cragging single pitch climbs, and multi pitch days. It's like Sport climbing heaven there. A lot of the fun stuff in RMNP will have plenty of snow to navigate around in June, but you can try some of the classics like Zowie. without load lifters will not that difficult. Reply reply More replies Honestly, I think "trad" harnesses are bulky and over rated. So: Climb the first pitch like a regular sport climb. Either way, I agree. 10c), Index, Washington, on a perfect, sunny day. I'm planning on heading to Clear Creek Canyon for some sport climbing including multi-pitch. Mastering multi-pitch maneuvers means merging efficient belaying, communication systems, and streamlined strategies to ensure a safe and swift ascent. Learning to place gear and build anchors is beyond the scope of a single article (despite a plethora of books on the subject, the debate on anchors continues to rage). Aug 28, 2021 · The majority of the multi-pitch climbing in the USA requires trad gear. It's mostly Trad, and the sport climbing that is there is "Jtree Sport", which means it's totally run out and brutal. I have a good bit of bolted multi pitch experience. Pitch = A climb as far as you can safely go with a rope. I did my first few multi-pitch routes on a ~10mm and it was really hard to pull the rope through the ATC in guide mode. I agree with everyone about finding in person instruction. 8 classics, like cat in the hat, olive oil, dark shadows, and other similar climbs. As an expert in multi-pitch climbing gear, it’s crucial to emphasize the importance of proper techniques for seamless transitions between pitches. Also another reason why the area you will do most of your climbing impacts your rack. Many of the routes need some gear though. 8 – 2 Pitches – Sport) Image from RandomEdgePath Smith Rock for sure. But we kind of had an epic on the descent So, yeah as people usually say, the descent is the most dangerous part of climbing. 1. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. I will have a car and harness/shoes/helmet and if needed, we can rent ropes and gear. This weekend I am climbing my first multi pitch, a route called Whymper in the Blue Mountains of Australia. We've only been climbing for ~6 months, but we lead up to ~5. Free soloing = No gear. Cobb and castle rock in Boulder canyon have lots of moderate routes as well. It was my first time placing gear and my partner had 0 experience with trad. 8. I will bring 70m rope and sport climbing gear. The home of Climbing on reddit. We’d have to make the best of it. There's a few multi-pitch trad routes in the RRG that are below 5. They are also an excellent resource for climbing, camping, showering A buddy is gonna do some easy multi-pitch sport climbing with me this weekend and I would like to have an idea of the steps involved. 11s and boulder V5ish. Staffed by climbers and a few doors down from the local gym Red Rock Climbing Center, the store offers an array of climbing paraphernalia, including gear, apparel, and guidebooks. We don't feel comfortable enough with our rope management to do multi-pitch. I’ve got a mix of mastercams aliens and Z4s in the smaller sizes. I have small gripes about the C-Quence but it also works. But if you throw a rope around your shoulders, it will probably squeeze out some water. A set of nuts will supplement that for longer pitches or if you want to place more gear. But your climbing gear settings definitely need load lifters and large space. 6mm (70m) climbing rope. I'm going to use the assumption that the reason for bailing is largely irrelevant here (ie: inability to finish a single pitch, or multi-pitch route due to insufficient skill, gear, safety (missing bolts), weather, etc). However, that’s not always the case. Climbing at the Gunks looks roof and heel hookie which I tend to like as far as sport climbing goes. There is quite a bit of bolted slab climbing up in Tuolumne that is good July-Sept. But I want to learn as much as possible now while I have the reading time. What they did in Dawn Wall is multi-pitch free climbing. 7-5. We climbed a few times at Rumney in the fall, but the highest we led there was 5. Apr 16, 2025 · What to look for in sport climbing shoes; Ten things you need to know about climbing shoes; Our favorites; Honorable mentions; Most gear roundups cover new releases. clove in. prepare to bail. I started multi-pitch with another sport only climber in Boulder and we didn't have a problem going up. May 4, 2016 · Where to Buy Gear. Multipitch climbing doesn't have much more objective hazard than single pitch, it is more complicated though and you will make a bunch of stupid mistakes in the course of your learning. 9. Make a quad. e. Planning to step up from single pitch sport routes to multi-pitch sport + trad climbs. Soooo dumb. We did the first pitch on Sundial that day also (mainly me trying to get my confidence up), and I just wasn't comfortable enough with gear placement. 2 ‘biners are used to operate the belay device in guide mode. As someone who is mostly a sport climber and not used to runouts, I liked having gear on that route for pitch 1 (very easy, but could use a couple pieces up high), pitch 3 and pitch 5, where there are sections of crack that aren't bolted - I maybe used 2 small cams on each pitch. The 5th loop holds all of my nonsense gear that I carry for non climbing/emergencies. Stuff like prusiks, gloves, belay plate and a nanotrax+tiblock for rescue. (Ideally something with some support that could bê hauled) The main packs I’ve looked are the BD Creek series, Patagonia cragsmith, and North Face Cinder. When swinging leads on a multi-pitch route, the belay transitions are often the biggest time suck. I plan on climbing some of the 5. 10 trad and 5. I have done Playin' Hooky before, which is a great 4 pitch 5. fxg lrporx nggu lrczyuy bczlw edjlwmkzs jbxp ccbpx ibrpew kteg